Toronto City Guide presented by Etihad

With Toronto FC earning a home match in the Audi 2019 MLS Cup Playoffs against D.C. United and Canada hosting the USA in the Concacaf Nations League on Monday, the chance may come sooner rather than later to take a trip to the city of Toronto. As well as the soccer action, there are plenty of reasons why, for an away fan, a trip to "the six" should be high on your list.

Spread along the north shore of Lake Ontario, the city and surrounding area combine all the attractions one would expect from a world-class, multicultural destination. It is a city of various distinct neighborhoods, nestled between acres of public and green space, that weave together to form the tapestry of Toronto.

As well as being a hub for Etihad Airways, Toronto is your gateway to Ontario and Canada as a whole.

Where to Eat and Drink

St. Lawrence Market

One of the many delights of Toronto is the sheer variety of eats on offer throughout the city, whether a good old-fashioned burger, authentic ethnic cuisines or an Instagram-able dessert, this town has you covered.

With the stadium tucked on the grounds of the Canadian National Exhibition, unless one is lucky enough to have their visit coincide with the CNE (like a state fair) from mid-August to Labour Day, the best bet is either nearby Liberty Village or allowing time for a leisurely approach with a stop along the way.

NEAR BMO FIELD:

• Liberty Village: A relatively new development of condo towers, the area features a good mix of quick bites (Harvey’s, Smoke’s Poutinerie), pub fare (Brazen Head, Locus 144, Local, 3 Brewers, Williams Landing), as well as some slightly more upscale spots (School, Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, Barcelona Tavern).
• King and Queen Streets West: If you have time to spare, it can be worse spent than perusing the offerings along these two main stretches that run east-west. On King, Wvrst (German-style sausage bar), Cibo (Italian), and Lee (star chef Susur Lee’s flagship spot) are some of the many spots to grab a more leisurely bite, while Early Mercy, Bar Wellington, and Gatsby’s Speakeasy will keep you refreshed. On Queen two headliners of the current burger renaissance can be found in the form of Rudy’s and The Burger’s Priest. Spots like the Horseshoe Tavern and the Rivoli are worthy stops, either on route to the match or more suitably afterwards.

ACROSS THE CITY:

• St. Lawrence Market: Located at the corner of Front and Jarvis, the market has been around in one form or another since 1803. The north building, currently under renovation, housed an antiques and farmer’s market, while the south building has a wide selection of prepared foods, including their famous peameal bacon sandwiches as well as fruits, vegetables, meats, and cheeses.
• Canadian institutions: Along with Tim Horton’s, coffee and donuts, Swiss Chalet is a family favorite around these parts. Dotted throughout the city, one can find their rotisserie chicken and exquisite dipping sauce in pretty much every part of the country, though Quebec has their own, distinct rival, St-Hubert. Fran’s Restaurant and Bar, in the familiar form of an old-school diner, has several 24-hour locations throughout the city, as does California Sandwiches, who offer classic veal, chicken and meatball sandwiches in unhealthy proportions.
• Delicious & Photogenic Treats: Whether ice cream (Ed’s Real Scoop, Bang Bang Ice Cream and Bakery, Bean and Baker Malt Shop), doughnuts (Cops Treats, Von’s Doughnuts), or bakeries (honestly, too many to list), that sweet tooth will be satiated.

How to Get Around

TTC Streetcars

Traffic, particularly during rush hours in and around the city can be brutal, and while public transit can have its own issues, it is the most convenient, if not always the fastest, way to get most places you need to go. That said, parking is generally available, whether on street or in lots – be it Green P Municipal Parking or private lots – but restrictions can be complicated and violations promptly ticketed.

• TTC: The all-encompassing public transit system is a series of subway lines (technically, three, but more usefully two – for the time being, at least), bus routes, and streetcars lines. With a family day pass (two adults and up to four children) just $13 CDN, it’s hard to beat. And though the streetcars, even the shiny new ones, are antiquated as a concept, they are still pretty neat.
• RIDE-SHARING: All the usual culprits (Uber, Lift) are available in Toronto, as well as a fleet of traditional taxis. In addition, car-sharing services (Zipcar, Enterprise, Maven, etc.) are available, to varying degrees.
• BIKE SHARE: The city runs an expansive network of some 5000 bikes and 465 stations, imaginatively named Bike Share Toronto. While much has been done to improve cycling conditions, the infrastructure is not yet where it needs to be.
• UP EXPRESS: Easy and fast travel from Union Station in the core of the city to Pearson International Airport (hence the name) and vice versa, with a stop at Dundas West Station on Bloor Street for midtown access.
• GO TRANSIT: Commuter trains and buses to-and-from the more far-flung parts of the Greater Toronto Area and the Golden Horseshoe – as far West as Hamilton and East to Oshawa (on weekends, one can even venture to Niagara Falls).
• VIA RAIL: For longer haul journeys, Union Station, in addition to being a nexus for the TTC, GO, and UP, is also a proper train station for nationwide travel.
• PRESTO/METROLINX: Conveniently, all of the above-mentioned forms of public transit and quite a few others in Ontario are now part of one system overseen by Metrolinx, so the same Presto card loaded with funds can be used on each, though, seeing as an online reload can take 24 hours to clear, so whenever possible load manually at an on-site terminal.

Where to Watch Soccer

Whether weekends or midweek, TVs in bars across the city will have their fair share of soccer on offer.

• REAL SPORTS BAR & GRILLl: MLSE’s headquarters located in Maple Leaf Square, right near the Scotiabank Arena, home to the Toronto Maple Leafs and Toronto Raptors, itself at the foot of Union Station. This massive location is set to reopen this fall after undergoing renovations.
• THE FOOTBALL FACTORY: On Bathurst Street, which makes it a quick streetcar ride from BMO Field, the Football Factory is a soccer-specific gastropub with a strong selection of food and drinks together with a good vibe.
• TFC SUPPORTERS' PUBS: Whether home or away, TFC support is known to frequent a few different spots on gamedays with each group having their own home both around BMO Field and across the city. Shoeless Joes on King West (Red Patch Boys), The Cloak & Dagger (U-Sector, away games), The Wheat Sheaf and Locus 144 in Liberty Village is where you’ll find the Kings of the North for away and home games, respectively.
• THE VOYAGEURS: With the sad demise of the Duke of Gloucester, the beloved home of Canadian soccer support forever, the V’s have relocated to The Cloak & Dagger for the most part, though Scallywags and Shoeless Joe’s are viable options.
• ENGLISH SUPPORTERS' PUBS: If you’re looking to join up with fellow EPL club supporters, Toronto has you covered – Scallywags (Liverpool), Opera Bob’s (Manchester City), Midtown Gastro Hub (Arsenal), Scotland Yard (Tottenham), The Firkin on Bloor (Manchester United) and Fox on John (Chelsea).

Where to get a pick-up game

In the summer months, there will always be a game going somewhere, but as most facilities cater toward leagues rather than drop-in, it may take some preplanning.

• THE HANGAR: Located in Downsview Park, a former military base/airport north of the city proper though accessible by public transit, is home to a multi-sport facility. They have drop-in sessions, but probably best to call ahead to confirm before making the trek. Bonus: TFC’s BMO Training Ground is located just around the corner.
• HIGH SCHOOL FIELDS: Both Monarch Park and Central Tech have fields that are available for the general public during non-school hours. They too are more league-focused, but it never hurts to reach out and see what may be available.
• TORONTO SOCCER MEETUP: Likely the best way to find a decent level organized game is this subgroup of the meetup site. It covers all the spots one would expect – Cherry Beach, The Soccerplex, etc.
• UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO: Right in the heart of town, the university has both turf (back campus) and grass (front campus) fields that have been known to host pick-up games. Plus, it’s a pretty nice part of town for a walk if no games are going on, so the trip is never wasted – Philosopher’s Walk, in particular, is a favorite.

What to see

TTC Streetcars

While you peruse the various neighborhoods in the city, keep an eye out for some of the unique charms.

• LANDMARKS: The CN Tower and Casa Loma get all the brochure covers and postcards, but Toronto has plenty of neat treasures to explore. Particularly hip at the moment has been the revitalization of old hotels, where one can stay and/or meet for cocktails and entertainment – The Drake Hotel (no, not that Drake), The Gladstone Hotel, and newest of the lot, The Broadview Hotel.
• NEIGHBORHOODS: Toronto, like most other cities its age, is really a series of smaller units, each with their own style and flavor: Uber-hip Kensington Market; The Junction, once dry, now rejuvenated; the Distillery District, as advertised; Yorkville, once hippy central, now international shopping hotspot; Cabbagetown, about as Old Toronto as it gets; the Beaches (yes, beaches). And then there are the various ethnic enclaves, led by Chinatown — two of them.
• WANDER THE STREETS: Be it Yonge Street, Bloor, Queen, King, College Street, or Front, Toronto is home to some very walkable stretches of varying length that will delight both the soul and the stomach. On foot may be the best way to really get a sense of the different parts of town.
• YES, THAT DRAKE: Another cultural touchstone in the city, The Real Jerk, was made even more famous when Rhianna’s music video for ‘Work’ was filmed there, featuring Toronto’s own, Drake – it can be found on Gerrard Street in the East End. Grab a roti, some dumplings and oxtail gravy, then head up the street to Withrow Park to dine al fresco with the best view of the city.
• LIVE ENTERTAINMENT: Toronto is both a must-stop location on any and all North American tours, as well as home to a thriving local scene. If music is your jam, check out venues ranging from The Cameron House, Grossman’s Tavern, and the Rex, to The Mod Club, The Opera House, and The Danforth Music Hall, as well as massive spots like the Budweiser Stage, right near BMO Field by the lake.
• GREEN/PUBLIC SPACES: Along with the usual attractions – the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO), and such, Toronto is home to lots of green and public spaces that bristle with life, especially in the summer. High Park is Toronto’s answer to New York City’s Central Park, while spots like Christie Pits, the Waterfront, Queen’s Park, Trinity Bellwoods Park and the Bentway offer chances to both lounge and be active.
• STREET FESTIVALS: Home to every kind of festival one can imagine – be they film (Toronto International Film Festival, Hot Docs Documentary Festival), art (Indigenous Arts Festival, Nuit Blanche), or music (Veld, OVO Fest) – it is when Toronto’s neighborhoods shut down their streets that they really come to life.

And finally: Whatever strikes the fancy, whatever you decide, choose well and welcome to Toronto!